FAQs
If you don't see an answer for your question below, please feel free to Contact Us.
Why use KGC brass over other metals for tremolo blocks and bridges? ...and what is "Bell Brass"?
What is the difference between a Standard KGC block and a "Mega Mass"?
How do I measure my guitar’s string spacing?
How do I measure my block height?
How do I set up a "floating" bridge?
How do I correctly change the strings on my guitar?
What is the "Flop Stop" and how does it work?
Why use brass over other metals for tremolo blocks and bridges?
Adding KGC brass to your guitar will give you a woody resonance due to the vibration transfer increase - you are now getting your tone through the body of your guitar!
Believe it or not, the term "Bell Brass" is a big misconception by people out there. Yes, bells are made of brass, but different bells are made of different alloys of brass to get different sounds. Brass is an alloy of copper and zinc - the percentages of each of these metals used in the particular alloy of brass one uses is what's truly important in its "musical properties".
Pretty much all brass you see being used by companies to make guitar components is about 60% copper, 35% zinc and 5% lead and other metals. THis is what they are calling "Bell Brass"
Here at KGC, we have extensively researched many different alloys of brass to find the most musical of them all. After lots of prototype machining and testing, we found the alloy we currently use has provento transfer vibration (sustain) and filter out undesirable harmonics (truer notes) much better than the other alloys. That is why so many of our customers have been blown away by the difference in our products when compared to others out there.
What is the difference between a Standard size KGC block and a "Mega Mass"?
Our standard size blocks are our flagship product - it's what put KGC on the map. They provide amazing tone enhancement, add a ton of sustain and provide a stability no other trem block manufacturer can offer. The standard blocks are 1/2" thick throughout - the "Mega Mass" is 5/8" thick towards the top and tapers down to 1/2" at the bottom to allow for maximum trem movement. The "Mega Mass" will give you a little added weight (11.5 oz as opposed to 10 oz on standard) but will add a good amount more sustain and sounds a little warmer than the standard block.
The picture below shows a "Mega Mass" block....

How do I measure my guitar’s string spacing?
The string spacing is measured at the bridge where the strings go over the saddles. Using a ruler, machinist scale or (best) dial calipers measure the distance between the high E string and the low E string. The Vintage style spacing is 2 7/32” (56.3 mm) and the import style (narrow) spacing is 2 1/16” (52.4mm). Some other guitars have a string spacing of 2 1/8” (54mm) and some of the less expensive Indonesian or made in
How do I measure my block height?
You can measure your block’s height without removing the whole bridge. Remove the back cavity cover. Using a ruler or scale insert it behind the tremolo block until it reaches the bottom of the bridge plate. 42mm is approximately 1 5/8”, 37mm is closer to 1 ½” and 32mm is close to 1 ¼”.
We have gone through extensive testing on many different alloys of bras to try to determine the most “musical” of them all. Just as different woods, different alloys of brass sound different and act differently when vibrations are sent through them. Through spectrum analysis we have found that in our opinion the particular brass alloy that we use has the best qualities and properties to provide a tone and sustain that is second to none.
How do I set up a "floating" bridge?
The front underside of the bridge plate is beveled, so the back-most ie deepest piece of the bevel should be on the body. If your floating it 1/8th then that will be the extent of your up pitch when you pull up on the bar and the bevel at the other end will give you the extent of your down pitch. If you want more up pitch raise the back, more down pitch raise the front.
What I do is with the guitar in tune and a piece of plastic/wood etc as a shim pushed under the back of the bridge to give me the 1/8th inch I set all my parameters such as action, relief, etc and then loosen all the strings up and take out the shim. Now turn the guitar over and unscrew the claw screws until the springs are slack then using a proper sized wooden or other wedge between the guitar and the back of the tone block push it in until you can measure the gap between the body and the back of the bridge plate at 1/8th inch. Then turn the guitar over and watching carefully that the wedge doesn't move and the gap remains the same at 1/8th inch tune only your A string to pitch which will give enough tension to hold the wedge in place.
For the next part, it is best if you have a Workmate type bench where you can work on the underside of the guitar while it lays flat and with the top up on the bench. With the A string tuned then start slowly and carefully screwing the claw and springs in evenly. This will result in them pulling the tone block forward. You are looking for the exact point when the wedge drops out which means that the tension of the springs and strings are equal. To be sure double check that the gap is still at 1/8th inch. Tune the rest of the strings to pitch and your guitar should now stay in tune and return to pitch after using the whammy.
I have always used this method which I read in a guitar mag many years ago and it works very well.
How do I correctly change the strings on my guitar?
First, turn the tuning key until the hole in the string post is in line with the nut slot. Next, pass the string through the hole pulling it up so there's about 2" between the finger board and the string keeping the string taught at the bridge end. This should allow for about 2½ or 3 windings on the string post once you’re done. You don't want any more than that - excessive windings can cause the string to slip continuously when tuning!
Now you will pull the string toward the center of the headstock and loop it underneath and over itself up against the string post. Next, start turning the tuning key winding the string on the post. Be sure the windings go from the top down thus creating a greater angle from the string post to the nut. This puts more downward pressure in the nut and increases your sustain. By installing the string in this manner it will have wound around itself once giving it something to “hang onto”, and once properly stretched should stay in tune great!
Next we'll talk about stringing a guitar with vintage style Kluson tuners which have a split post (these are found on many Fender Strats and Telecasters). What you do is pass the string through the bridge end and pull it tight. Measure about 2" past the tuning post of the string you’re changing (I use the handle of my plastic string winder which is just about 2" long) and cut the string. Now stick the cut string end down the center hole of the post and start winding. Cutting the string like this you’ll have about 3 windings on the string post and once again be sure to wind from the top down! Properly installed strings always stay in tune better, have greater sustain and take much less stretching to become stable.
What is the "Flop Stop" and how does it work?
The "Flop Stop" is KGC's intuitive design that keeps the trem bar from flopping around and also keeps it from stripping out the hole. Each block that requires a trem bar hole gets a "Flop Stop". A piece of nylon is pressed into the block approximately half way down on the trem hole. It is then tapped for the trem bar and ground down to be flush with the sides of the block. Now, when you screw in your arm, it will stay in place no matter what position you like it to be in - and it will never strip out!
Here is a cross-section of a block with a "Flop Stop"
.jpg)
FAQs























Comments
My name is Mark. I'm building A hand made Les paul double
cutaway style guitar out of all ancient woods.
giant redwood burl 3000 yrs. old. Kaui 30.000 yrs. old.
And I am using a vintage washburn wonderbar trem.
but I am also employing the yamaha sg 2000 tech. of brass under
the trem. legs front & back.
If I send you my leg dimensions; would you sell me a front & back leg for my custom application ? Just the small bars
that will set in body under the trem. unit.
Thanks for your help in building my dream guitar .
Mark.
RSS feed for comments to this post